The BIT (Beverage Industry Trends): Santa Fe, New Mexico
Written by Danny Ronen
Photos by Jenn Farrington

Santa Fe is a bit mystical. Old tradition and

Santa Fe is a bit mystical. Old tradition and artisans combined with new flavors and
several cultures make for a vibrant mix, from the award-winning Green Chile Cheeseburger at single-counter family-owned Bobcat Bite on the outskirts of town, to brunch at the stylish Anasazi Restaurant just off the central town square. “The City Different” has it all but doesn’t take itself too seriously. The BIT learned how to stay hydrated in this beautiful high desert.

Jeff Dixon, GM of El Farol, divides his time between working the bar, managing the front of the house and putting together a wide array of flamenco dinner shows and outdoor concerts on their extensive new back patio; bartender Reuben Cordova makes drinks so quickly it’s hard to catch him on film. Not just for use as a cocktail floater, mezcal can have complex notes ranging from hot to smoky to scotch-caramel flavors. The Dragon Room’s flight of Del Maguey single-village mezcals is a great way to experience that range.
• Jeff Dixon, GM of El Farol, divides his time between working the bar, managing the front of the house and putting together a wide array of flamenco dinner shows and outdoor concerts on their extensive new back patio; bartender Reuben Cordova makes drinks so quickly it’s hard to catch him on film.
• Not just for use as a cocktail floater, mezcal can have complex notes ranging from hot to smoky to scotch-caramel flavors. The Dragon Room’s flight of Del Maguey single-village mezcals is a great way to experience that range.

"Around here, people want Margaritas," says John Strand, bartender at the famous Pink Adobe restaurant’s Dragon Room Lounge. John used to work in New Orleans and is accustomed to making drinks for people all over the world, but in Santa Fe he finds it’s mostly Margaritas. Good thing he learned a great recipe, one with a little history as well. Rosalea Murphy, who opened the Pink Adobe in 1944, was among the first to squeeze all juices fresh for the bar, and they do the same today, as well as creating their own mixes.

The highlight was the mezcal flight, featuring Del Maguey’s San Luis del Rio, Chichicapa, Minero and Santo Domingo Albarradas, which ended the evening with a lovely smoky fi nish—thankfully before we had time to order The Millionaire, a $50 Margarita (the only one above $15 on the menu) that includes AsomBroso Añejo and Grand Marnier.

You know your bar has been around for a long time when it lends its name to an Irish economist’s game theory problem about the delicate balance between a perfectly-packed bar and an overcrowded space (Google "El Farol bar problem" for details). Originally opened in 1835, El Farol is Santa Fe’s oldest- running cantina and restaurant, so random mathematical theories are bound to emerge. Jeff Dixon, El Farol’s GM, has an outlook similar to John Strand’s on his town’s bar habits: "Santa Fe is different from big cities, and folks kind of only expect a few things from us."

They do a wide array of cocktails but also have a bourgeoning wine program featuring Chilean, Spanish and Argentine wines. Jeff notes that wine sales have drastically increased in the past year, along with liquor (up 30%), whereas beer sales have remained the same.

Jenn Farrington, Sana Fe New Mexico. Blending well with the active local gallery scene, the walls of El Farol are covered with original artwork by Alfred Moreng, actually painted onto the wall of the restaurant itself.
• Blending well with the active local gallery scene, the walls of El Farol are covered with original artwork by Alfred Moreng, actually painted onto the wall of the restaurant itself.
He thinks this might have something to do with the fact that they are starting to get a slightly older crowd, like the folks who flock to the neighborhood for the multitude of art galleries. Synergizing with this trend, El Farol not only has an extensive art collection but also has a new outdoor space that will expand the locale’s already popular live music scene.

Santa Fe, Jenn Farrington, Danny Ronen. Blue Corn Café serves its own brand of beer, brewed at its own new Marble Brewery. Flanked by artist Pola Lopez’s mural are Chaya River Red Ale, Atomic Blonde Pilsner and the 2007 GABF Gold Medal–winning Sleeping Dog Stout. Although the Amaya bar at the Hotel Santa Fe is famous for its Prickly Pear Margaritas, bartender Angela Sandoval’s sangria recipe defi nitely stands out. She credits the original recipe to Tony Paez, an old friend from Spain who danced fl amenco professionally.
• Blue Corn Café serves its own brand of beer, brewed at its own new Marble Brewery. Flanked by artist Pola Lopez’s mural are Chaya River Red Ale, Atomic Blonde Pilsner and the 2007 GABF Gold Medal–winning Sleeping Dog Stout.
• Although the Amaya bar at the Hotel Santa Fe is famous for its Prickly Pear Margaritas, bartender Angela Sandoval’s sangria recipe definitely stands out. She credits the original recipe to Tony Paez, an old friend from Spain who danced flamenco professionally.

Don’t call it a comeback—beer’s been here for years. In fact, since the original brewery opened in Santa Fe in 1997, restaurant group Santa Fe Dining has created seven dining locations, plus Marble Brewery, which opened this April and is already operating at capacity. Manager Nikki Gray of downtown Blue Corn Café has been with the company for more than 11 of its 24 years and has managed this location for two years, during which time she’s seen quite a bit of change and growth.

"There’s something appealing to locals when they know that everything we do is based either in Santa Fe or Albuquerque," says Gray. "There’s definitely a sense of pride." The local interest shows up in one brew named for Santa Fe’s Chaya River and another sporting a logo designed after the VP’s dog. With the emergence of local wines (many of which will be featured at the 18th Annual Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta, September 24–28), the popularity of local beer has only increased.

Animated bartender Angela Sandoval stands behind the Amaya bar at the Hotel Santa Fe. Although it’s mid-week and the lounge area is quiet, the bar is bustling with orders coming in from servers working in various locations throughout the hotel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Subscribe to The Tasting Panel Magazine to read more